Frequently Asked Questions
Many people believe that the higher the colour temperature the brighter the lamp. This is totally wrong. The colorr temperature is purely a scale to measure the colour of the light output. It is a reference purely for colorr and could equally be called White, Yellow or Blue. The reality is the higher up the scale the lamps are the less bright they become. 4300K lamps are approx 10% brighter (measured in Lumens, not degrees K) than the 6000K. If you want lighting performance the 4300K HID lamps are the best. In our opinion 6000K has the best and most attractive light output.
Degrees K = ONLY COLOR
The international unit (SI) of luminous intensity. The term has been in use since the early days of lighting when a standard candle of a fixed size and composition was used as a basis for evaluating the intensity of other light sources. This unit is used in measuring headlight output; basically the higher the number is, the brighter the light is.Lumen (lm)
The international unit (SI) of luminous flux (quality of lights). For example, a dinner candle produces about 12 lumens and a standard 60-watt incandescent bulb produces 830 lumens. The higher the number is, the brighter the light is.Kelvin (K)
A basic unit of thermodynamic temperature (color temperature) used to measure the whiteness of the light output. The higher the number is, the whiter the light is. When over 5000K the light begins to turn to blue as daylight.
High Intensity Discharge (H.I.D.) is a type of lighting technology that replaces the filament of the light bulb with Xenon gas. The gas is ignited to produce an arc of light, when high voltage is applied. The amount of light output is three times that of a standard halogen bulb. The lamps also glow at a higher light temperature (closer to natural sunlight) that gives it its distinct color and appearance.
Other companies produce halogen bulbs that are gas-filled. They still have a filament as they are halogen technology, but the gas gives the bulb a bluer color when lit. Xenon-filled halogen bulbs produce little or no more light output than standard halogen bulbs of the same wattage.
"It should be noted that halogen technology is not comparable to the Xenon discharge technology, fitted as original equipment to more and more of the world's finest cars. " - Philips
DO NOT BE FOOLED BY COMPANIES THAT OFFER HID-LOOK BULBS!
They are not a true XENON H.I.D. light system.
HID XENON lamps are designed to last for the life of your vehicle. They will run for over 3500 hours. Our lamp kits and bulbs are made of the finest materials available.
XENON H.I.D. lamps are 35 watts while traditional halogen bulbs are 55 watts. Even though XENON H.I.D. lamps draw less current, they produce 3 times the light output as the higher wattage halogen bulbs. Increasing the wattage will make the bulb a little brighter but still much dimmer than the XENON HID lamps. Also, AMPS = (BULB WATTS X 2) / BATTERY VOLTAGE OUTPUT (12). So as you increase the wattage on your bulb you increase the current draw on your entire electrical system. This is critical in motorcycle applications.
Why can I not just replace the halogen bulb in my vehicle with XENON HID lamps without having to purchase the entire kit?
Motorcycles and automobiles currently use a 12 Volt electrical system for their headlamps. XENON HID lighting systems require over 20,000 volts to ignite the bulbs. Once lit, they only require 85 volts to keep running. Our kits include a power pack that is necessary for the lamps to turn on. The input of the power pack is 9-16 volts. It is an integral part of the system. You DO NOT require any additional components to install the XENON HID lamp into the original socket of the halogen bulb.
Every one of our kits is made from OEM grade materials that have been DOT approved. We will supply you with all of the necessary components and hardware to install this system into your vehicle. Each kit includes 2 direct plug-in XENON H.I.D. lamps, 2 ballasts (transformer/igniter unit), all necessary wiring, complete and easy to follow installation instructions and wiring diagram.
For anyone who is mechanically inclined, this installation is considered "do-it-yourself". While a typical installation takes approximately an hour, it can vary depending on the application (conversion or auxiliary). Our kits are ready to install right-out-of-the-box and come complete with everything that you will need. We also provide you with a full set of easy-to-read, step-by-step instructions to guide you.
With the growing popularity of leasing vehicles, a big concern is whether or not you can bring the vehicle back to its original factory condition. Our kits install with little or no modifications to your vehicle. If need be, the entire kit can be removed and the original halogen bulbs replaced. This kit can be re-installed into another vehicle that uses the same bulb size.
All originally supplied XENON H.I.D. lighting systems from automotive manufacturers use a dual bulb configuration for High and Low beam. A traditional halogen bulb is used for the High beam while a XENON H.I.D. lamp is utilized for the Low beam. Our kits are intended to replace the Low-beam components of the lighting system while still keeping the High beam halogen bulb fully operational.
Some vehicles use a single halogen bulb for both the High and Low beam (like H4). We offer a kit for these vehicles as well, but the functionality of the High beam is eliminated. We are also offering the Dual Beam / Hylow H4 kit where both High and Low beam is preserved.
An alternative to this is to use the low beam H4 kit and install the XENON HID light system kit into the auxiliary lights of your vehicle. This way, you will still have full High beam functionality and will increase the effectiveness of your auxiliary lights.
Every country and jurisdiction has its own rules and regulations governing the use of automotive lighting. XENON H.I.D. lighting systems that are supplied with the vehicles from the factory are DOT / E approved. Our kits are also made by the same OEM manufacturers that supply all the major car companies of the world. NO XENON H.I.D. lighting system available from any source is DOT / E approved if installed outside of the factory. These kits are not street legal for use on public roads as they are. As a result, we officially endorse the kit for exhibition and off-road use and will only sell the kit to be used for these purposes. We are not responsible for customers who violate the terms of sale in which they will assume all responsibilities for any unauthorized or unintended use other than exhibition or off-road use.
If your HID bulbs do not light upon installation, the likely explanation is that the stock wiring's polarity is reversed relative to the ballast. In other words, the power and ground wires of your vehicle's stock harness are reversed relative to the ballast. To correct for reverse polarity, please remove the plug from the input socket of the ballast, flip the plug and re-connect it. The HID bulbs should now turn on. If they don't, you may have a fuse that is blown; if so, please replace the fuse then try the HIDs again. Having connected to the ballast with reverse polarity did not do any harm to the ballast. As mentioned above, it is possible for the reverse polarity situation to pop a fuse. Flipping the input plug to the ballast usually means that the clips on the plug will not be used. The yellow gasket on the plug will hold the connection but feel free to use electrical tape as a secondary means of securing the connection. Reverse Polarity is common for Chevy's and Honda's and has been reported for other vehicles, too. Some vehicles have reverse polarity for one plug and not the other. At times, a High/Low harness can have an input plug wired in reverse. This situation can be treated as a matter of "reverse polarity" such that flipping the plug 180 degrees will solve the problem.
If your HID kit is not working properly, it could be due to one of several reasons:
Flickering: Flickering on both sides of the vehicle can be caused by insufficient available power or incompatibility with the vehicle's computer system.
Please determine if the flickering occurs with the engine running and with the engine off. If the problem occurs only with the engine running, it's likely that you need error code eliminators to make the HIDs acceptable to the vehicle's computer system (Dodge Rams and later model BMWs are exceptions as the Warning Canceler / Error Code Eliminators will not correct the problem).
If the flickering occurs with the engine running and with the engine off, there may be a general powering issue, which may involve DRLs (see below) or be a general powering issue that may be resolved by installing an HID accessory harness so that the HIDs are powered from the battery rather than through the stock wiring.
If your car has Daytime Running Lights (DRL), the reduced operating voltage of the DRLs is likely responsible for the flickering; the problem may be corrected by pulling the fuse for the DRLs or otherwise disabling the DRLs (this may not be legal in your jurisdiction so please check the local laws). An accessory HID harness may solve the flickering problem due to DRLs but this will convert your DRLs to "full on" status.
Neither light turns on: This is almost always due to reversed polarity. This can be corrected by reversing (flipping) the connector on the input side of the ballast. Another possible explanation is a blown fuse. Or, if a harness is being used, the relay or in-line fuse has likely failed.
One side doesn’t turn on reliably or at all: This is likely caused by a defective bulb, ballast or an issue with the stock wiring (available power). To identify the responsible component, please swap bulbs or ballasts from one side of the vehicle to the other; if the problem follows one component then that is the part responsible for the failure. If all of the components prove to be functional on one side of the vehicle then you likely have a powering problem on the side that is failing; this will likely be corrected by installing an accessory HID harness.
Intermittent firing for both sides: If it takes multiple on-off cycles to get the HIDs to turn on, you may have a powering issue, which is often resolved by the installation of an accessory HID harness. Also, sometimes increasing the headlight fuse by 5 amps solves the problem.
If you have an HID Harness (whether it's an accessory or H/L harness) installed and are still getting intermittent firing, double check your power and ground cable connections.